Fashion from 1900 to 1939

From 1900 to 1939 • THE PERIOD from the beginning of the century to the outbreak of World War I is usually spoken of in England as the Edwardian era, although the king actually died in 1910. In France, with a slight extension backwards into the middle of the 1890’s, it was referred to as la belle époque. In both countries the atmosphere was very similar. It was an age of great ostentation and extravagance. • Fashion as always reflected the age. Like the King himself it favoured the mature woman, cool and commanding with a rather heavy bust, the effect of which was further emphasized by the so-called ‘health’ corsets which, in a laudable effort to prevent a downward pressure on the abdomen, made the body rigidly straight in front by throwing forward the bust and throwing back the hips. The skirt, smooth over the hips, flared out flared out towards the ground in the shape of a bell. • Cascades of lace descended from the corsage; indeed there was a passion for lace in every part of the gown. For those who could not afford real lace there was a considerable vogue for Irish crochet. In the evening the dresses were extravagantly décolleté, but in the daytime the whole body was concealed from the ears to the feet. The little lace collar was kept in place by boning, and the arms were always completely concealed by long gloves. • Another feature of this period, however, is the importance of tailor-mades. A considerable number of young women of the middle classes were now beginning to earn living as governesses, typists and shop assistants. Even rich women wore tailor-mades in the country or when traveling, and the English tailors. • The female silhouette began to be slightly modified in 1908. The bust was no longer thrust quite so far forward, nor the hips so far back. Floppy blouses hanging over the waist in front were abandoned. The fashionable ‘Empire’ gown, although bearing very little resemblance to the dresses worn in the time of Napoleon I, had the effect of narrowing the hips. This can be seen quite plainly in the corset advertisements of the period. Hats became wider, which had the effect of making the hips look narrower still.

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